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Kanchanaburi is neither a big city nor a sandy beach but has more to teach you about Thailand’s recent history than any other destination within 2 hours of Bangkok.
Kanchanaburi’s undisputably rich heritage combined with its 7 national parks, dozens of waterfalls, caves, and hot springs make it a compelling location.
Even if you are not interested in any of these, the town itself is a delightful respite from the busy capital. Sit by the river, open a Chang beer or a milky Thai tea, and enjoy the sunset.
Most visit Kanchanaburi as a day trip but you won’t run out of new places if you spend 2 or 3 days and I will prove it to you!
Plan your trip to Kanchanaburi
Why Visit Kanchanaburi?
Kanchanaburi is ridiculously popular mainly because of its proximity to Bangkok. I am not downplaying its connection to World War II and the natural endowment of the region but the number of visitors wouldn’t be the same if it weren’t such an easy-to-organize day trip.
This may sound like a reason NOT to visit Kanchanaburi. Perhaps dark history and natural parks are not your cup of tea.
But Kanchanaburi is also a small town with a clock that runs slow and a river that lulls the floating houses built on stilts along its banks. Come night, the townfolk fill the waterfront and the lively night markets. Isn’t being part of that just as appealing?
A visit to Kanchanaburi is rewarding in multiple ways. The sacrifice and power of the will of thousands of soldiers will humble you. Hot springs and brisk waterfalls will rejuvenate your body. You will enjoy a laid-back Thai town without traffic jams and noisy boulevards. And when it’s time to leave you will look back with an appreciation for life’s simple joys: freedom and peace.
Only 1 Day in Kanchanaburi (or a Day Trip from Bangkok)
Use your 1 day trip to Kanchanaburi as an opportunity to learn more about its dark history between 1942 and 1945.
Kanchanaburi had a militarily important location in WW2. It was home to hundreds of thousands of slave laborers, civilian workers, and prisoners of war as they built a strategic train track connecting Thailand with Burma – the Death Railway.
Due to the enormous number of casualties, Kanchanaburi is entrenched in the collective patriotic memory of multiple countries. It is a reminder of the horrors of war and a testament to human spirit and perseverance. You will see many sights connected with WW2 and the plight of soldiers and civilians in the region.
These are somber places that have turned into tourist attractions. If that’s what it takes to remember, so be it but approach them with respect and humility.
The Bridge on the River Kwai
As WW2 intensified, the Japanese Empire looked for different ways to supply Burma from Thailand. The water route was continuously under the threat of Allied submarines, so prisoners of war were put to work on a projected 400 km railway route with more than 600 bridges.
Bridge 277 in Kanchanaburi was one of the deadliest to construct. The lack of suitable equipment, horrible living conditions, malnutrition, and mistreatment led to an average death rate of 20 men per day over 16 months.
The bridge got its well-known name in 1957 after the release of the eponymous Oscar-winning movie, although at the time the river wasn’t called Kwai either – it too was renamed. And a tourist attraction was born.
Today, you can either ride the train or walk over the bridge. You can even stand on one of the side platforms on the bridge itself as the train passes less than a meter away from you. Don’t worry – it only goes at around 10 km/hour. It’s even possible to high-five a passenger through the window!
If you want to take a video of the train crossing the bridge, check the Death Railway Timetable.
The Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
At least 16,000 Allied prisoners of war died during the construction of the Thailand-Burma Railway, i.e. The Death Railway. Most succumbed to disease and malnutrition, some were beaten to death, others drowned.
The US repatriated the remains of its fallen soldiers but the other allies – Australia, the UK, and the Netherlands created memorial cemeteries in Thailand.
The Kanchanaburi War Cemetery (Don Rak) is in the center of the city, within walking distance from the train station. Entrance is free, of course.
Right next to the cemetery is the Death Railway Museum which costs 160 THB to enter and displays personal stories, records, dioramas, and info boards about its construction and the human sacrifice necessary.
The JEATH War Museums
You need to be really into museums and war history because the 2 JEATH museums are nothing spectacular. They lack the proper curation and are more akin to storage places for all sorts of wartime memorabilia.
JEATH is an acronym for the nationalities involved: Japanese, English, American, Thai, and Dutch (Holland).
This name, however, overlooks the over 250,000 Southeast Asian victims of forced labor. It also ignores the 800 South Korean guards employed to oversee the construction, often with brutal coercion tactics.
The older museum is near the temple area of the city and features a corridor of photos from the war and some bombs and ammunition. It’s poorly maintained.
The newer one is near the Kwai Bridge where, unfortunately, a lot of the information is only in Thai and the organization is lackluster. It’s a random array of artifacts, pictures, and weaponry.
Both museums have an entrance fee of 50 THB but you may be better off visiting the Death Railway Museum next to the Cemetery.
Kanchanaburi Historic Walking Street (+ Town Gate)
This nickname of Pak Prak Road is a bit misleading.
It used to be a walking street when the night market was there on Saturdays. It has since moved to the riverfront (see below) and Pak Prak Road is now for cars, bar the pavement.
It is the main artery of Old Kanchanaburi. On both sides are traditional shops in Chinese style – stores on the ground level and living quarters on the first floor. Many of the buildings date to the 1920s and remain untouched by human hand – only by time. A bygone Kanchanaburi.
About 20 of them have signs in front about their history, significance, and owners, many of who had an important role to play during the war.
Saturday Night Market
Photo: tipwam/ShutterstockDon’t scroll away if you aren’t going to Kanchanaburi on Saturday – there is a night market in town every day!
It’s just that the one on Saturday is much bigger and with more interesting offerings than the ordinary daily night market. If you can somehow adjust your schedule, go to Kanchanaburi on a Saturday – the dozens of delicious snacks make it worthwhile!
The Saturday Night Market lines up along Song Kwae Street, whereas the nightly one is near the train station.
Day 2: A Motorcycle Day Trip
Stay a second day in Kanchanaburi to use it as a gateway to the region. There’s more than just military history, although a few more sites about WW2 and the Death Railway are worth a visit.
Some of the places mentioned below are reachable by public transport but for maximum freedom and flexibility, you can rent a motorcycle for a day. Rental shops on the River Kwai Road rent scooters for around 200 THB per day.
For those who can’t ride a scooter, a good alternative is a bicycle tour around Kanchanaburi’s countryside.
Hellfire Pass
The Death Railway was eventually completed in late 1943 (ahead of schedule!) and connected Thailand to Burma. It doesn’t anymore – it was discontinued due to safety concerns. Today, the train terminates at Nam Tok Station.
About 20 km after Nam Tok is what remains in history as Hellfire Pass – a place where the train tracks cut straight through the rock, at some point up to 25 meters deep.
The laborers themselves gave it this name. They had few drills and dug mostly by hand. Around the clock. Hell, they said. During the night, their guards would light torches so work could continue. Fire, they exclaimed.
In 1998, the Australian Government allocated money for the construction of a memorial site and a state-of-the-art museum (Interpretative Center) with views over the valley where Hellfire Pass is located.
You may walk 30 minutes over the former train tracks from the Interpretative Center to the war memorial listening to an in-depth audio guide. The rocks remain as they were during 1943 – blasted, chipped, cut.
For those with more time and energy, follow the track until the end of the Pass, some 3 km each way.
The Center and the Pass are both free to enter.
You can get there by direct bus #8203 from Kanchanaburi. On the return, opt to get a songthaew to Nam Tok and then hop on the Death Railway itself (today no longer deathly) back to Kanchanaburi. The last train from Nam Tok is at 15:30.
For a guided trip to the Hellfire Pass, consider this private tour, which already includes River Kwai.
Hot Springs
If you go by scooter, you can travel a little farther from Hellfire Pass to one of the hot springs that Kanchanaburi is famous for.
Pick between these 2:
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| Lin Thin |
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| Hin Dat |
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The hottest pool in both is 43 degrees – hot enough to relax your muscles so well that you won’t be able to walk afterwards!
Both have clean changing rooms and showers. Best of all, they are mostly frequented by locals and aren’t just another tourist trap!
Tirumala Barachi Buddhist Temple
Make a quick stop at this relatively new Buddhist temple near Nam Tok.
Not all temples in Thailand are ancient or even just old. It goes to show that Buddhism is an ever-evolving part of Thai culture, not a static part of history.
Notice how different the styles are from older temples in Thailand. It’s not tacky-new, it’s orderly and pretty.
Pay homage to the Giant Buddha Statue and remember: never turn your back towards the Buddha!
Entry is free but the temple closes at 16:00.
Places to Skip on Day 2
You will pass by Sai Yok National Park on your way to the hot springs. Despite its status as a national park, it’s not worth the 300 THB entrance fee for foreigners.
The waterfall there is unimpressive, the walking trails are not maintained well, and the food is overpriced.
It’s better to save your money for the Erawan National Park on Day 3.
Day 3
Erawan Falls
The waterfall Erawan is a 7-tiers marvel. Even if you’ve seen your fair share of waterfalls, Erawan is still pretty exciting.
Located in the Erawan National Park, it’s a massively popular place in Kanchanaburi. The lower 2 tiers and the last one at the top get quite busy, especially on the weekend.
Unlike Sai Yok (see above), Erawan is well-maintained and the trails are a joy to walk along. The total distance from the entrance to the 7th tier is around 2.5 km.
You can swim in the pools of water under every step of the waterfall but you must always wear a life vest. A bit strict if you ask me, but safety first.
The plastics policy is enforced with just as much rigor: You must pay a refundable deposit to take plastic bottles with you and absolutely none are allowed past tier 2! This is why the National Park is unspoiled by humanity’s crude oil inventions.
To reach Erawan, take public bus #1870 from Kanchanaburi. It costs 50 THB and runs once per hour. The last bus back is at 17:00.
Nine Army Battle Historical Park
Should you go to Erawan by motorcycle, you can make a stop at a war history site that’s not about WW2.
The Nine Army Battle Park commemorates the war of 1785/86 between Siam and Burma. One of the war’s decisive battles was fought in the plains below the hill where the museum now stands.
Check out the big battle drum on the top of the command hill, then go to the visitor center for the reenactments, dioramas, and history.
There is no entrance fee. The Park is open from 8:00 to 17:00 on the weekend and 10:00 to 16:00 during the week.
Places to Avoid on Day 3
You may be tempted to go to Taweechai Elephant Camp as it’s on the way to Erawan. Don’t.
The elephants are always chained except for when carrying tourists around. Which they don’t do on their own volition – it’s a result of years of abuse and violent control.
If you want a face-to-face meetup with an elephant, go to a sanctuary instead – nearbyElephants World is perhaps the best in Kanchanaburi.
For a guided experience, take this tour, which leaves from Bangkok and includes both Kanchanaburi and Elephants World.
How to Get to Kanchanaburi from Bangkok
Kanchanaburi and Bangkok are extremely well connected. Buses and minibuses run around the clock departing from Mochit New Van Terminal.
But why go by bus when you can ride on the Death Railway itself?
Two trains daily depart from Thonburi Station in Bangkok bound for Nam Tok at 7:45 and 13:55. Tickets cost 100 THB regardless of which station you get off.
You can get off at Kanchanaburi Station but you will miss out on the scenic portion of the journey – the approach towards Nam Tok.
Since the price is the same anyway and you will have the privilege to pick a window seat before the train is swarmed by tourists (sit on the left-hand side for the view!), you can instead continue to Nam Tok, then visit Hellfire Pass and return to Kanchanaburi.
If you prefer a guided experience that includes transportation from Bangkok, consider the following tours:
- Historical Day to River Kwai Tour
- Erawan Park & Kanchanaburi Tour (Small-Group)
- Death Railway & River Kwai Bridge Tour (Private)
- Kanchanaburi Tour & Floating Market Visit
- Kanchanaburi Tour (Private & Customized)
- Kanchanaburi & Erawan Waterfall Tour (Private)
- River Kwai & Erawan National Park Tour (2-Days)
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Posted DEC 18, 2024
English (US) · 