Legendary luxury on the Athens Riviera: A review of Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens

For a hospitality brand that is synonymous with unrivaled service and luxury, it's no surprise that Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, with its pared-back glamour and unbeatable views of the glimmering Aegean Sea, goes above and beyond for its sun-seeking guests.

The moment you cross the pine-shrouded security gates and ascend a steep hill to arrive at two sprawling white complexes that comprise the resort, all perched high over the sea at the tip of the Lemos peninsula, any semblance of stress melts away. At least, that was the case for me when I arrived at this Athens Riviera gem earlier this fall.

Though it feels a world away from the buzz of Athens proper, the hotel is conveniently only 30 minutes by car to the city's center. It's also close to a handful of acclaimed UNESCO sites, like the Acropolis and the Riviera's Temple of Poseidon on Cape Sounion.

Against the backdrop of a destination so richly infused with the remnants of ancient civilization, this Four Seasons outpost delivers sophisticated accommodations and modern amenities in spades. Here's what it's like staying at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens.

What is Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens?

The Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens opened in 2019 in the charming town of Vouliagmeni along the Athens Riviera. It is Greece's first Four Seasons.

However, the property has a lengthy history dating back to the early 1960s when it opened as a chic seaside resort. It was the place to see and be seen by global celebrities, from Brigitte Bardot to Frank Sinatra. Now, it still plays host to celebrities but more frequently to off-duty business folk, wealthy travelers and local socialites.

The resort is enormous, occupying 74 acres of Vouliagmeni's seaside peninsula, making it feel especially secluded from the surrounding Riviera. Like many Four Seasons properties, there is a private club vibe and an air of hushed elegance, though it didn't feel stuffy. Staff are attentive and friendly, yet not overbearing. Floral displays in the lobby and around the property are magnificent and lush; the landscaping is pristine — think cascading tiers of pines, Cyprus and native shrubbery.

About a 30-minute drive from Athens International Airport (ATH), the property can arrange car transfers (at a cost) to and from the airport for guests. Those interested in booking a taxi can expect to pay between $50 and $80, depending on traffic and time of day.

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Public transportation around the Riviera isn't necessarily convenient. There are bus systems, but they're not very easy to navigate for those who can't read Greek. The hotel recommends using taxis or arranging a limousine or luxury car rental via the concierge. You'll find a concierge in the spacious, airy lobbies of the two main buildings, Nafsika and Arion.

How much Four Seasons Astir Palace costs and how to book it

Spread between three areas on the peninsula — two multistory ocean-facing buildings, Nafsika and Arion, as well as a cove of beachside bungalows — Four Seasons Astir Palace is home to 303 accommodations total (200 rooms, 42 suites and 61 bungalows). Room types range from Arion pine-view rooms (430 square feet) and Nafsika sea-view rooms (473 square feet) to stately suites, including the Arion presidential suite (2,260 square feet) and the Nafsika ambassador suite (2,367 square feet). Guests can also stay in several types of bungalow suites; they sit just past Nafsika and feature private pools and terraces.

Unsurprisingly, a stay at this property comes at a steep price. Over the next several months, rates begin at around $622 for a Nafsika sea-view room and climb significantly from there for larger spaces. For example, suites begin at several thousand dollars per night, depending on the season.

While Four Seasons does not have a loyalty program, this property is part of American Express Fine Hotels + Resorts, which is available to those who hold The Platinum Card® from American Express or The Business Platinum Card® from American Express. By using your Amex Platinum for Fine Hotels + Resorts bookings, you can enjoy elitelike benefits as well as perks like room upgrades upon arrival (when available) and daily breakfast for two. You can earn 5 Membership Rewards points per dollar spent on prepaid hotel bookings or use points for all or part of your stay.

Rooms at Four Seasons Astir Palace

My 560-square-foot Nafsika sea-view junior suite felt spacious and airy, thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Aegean Sea. The headboard and midcentury-style dresser, both rich wood, provided warm accents in the otherwise neutral-colored room. The room felt like a reflection of Greece's iconic white-washed coastal villages.

I entered through a dim, closet-flanked hallway (two side-by-side closets contained two robes and slippers, a safe, an iron and a laundry bag, in addition to hangers and plenty of space for clothing and shoes). The bathroom was to the right, and the bedroom was straight ahead.

Beyond the incredibly comfortable king-size bed, outfitted with crisp white linens, there was a sitting area with a couch, a small round table and two chairs. Beyond that, there was a balcony on the other side of sliding glass doors. Each bedside table had a small lamp and charging stations (USB and USB-C as well as European outlets). There was an iPad on one side that I could use to peruse amenities, book spa services or order room service.

Art was minimal and elegant — delicately framed still photos or modern artworks that reflected the neutral-hued color scheme.

The white-marble bathroom featured a black-and-white tiled floor, a small wash closet for the toilet on one side and a standing shower with both a shower wand and rain shower feature on the other. To the left of the dual-vanity sink was a deep soaking tub. Next to the tub was a window that looked into the bedroom. During turn-down service, an electric shade would come down to create more privacy between the bedroom and bathroom.

To my delight, all bath products were Diptyque. Towels were fluffy and plentiful, as expected from Four Seasons. There was a high-powered hair dryer under the sink.

The room also featured a standing cabinet with a minifridge stocked with beer, wine, liquor and sodas. Several drawers held snacks, as well as a Nespresso maker, plenty of pods, a tea kettle and a nice selection of teas.

The terrace, where I spent most of my time, was stunning. The deep wood accents continued onto the wall that separated my terrace from the room next to me, as well as to the small coffee table. There was a three-seater couch as well as a chair. The terrace provided a sweeping view of the pool and private beaches below, with the sparking Aegean beyond.

What I ate at Four Seasons Astir Palace

At a resort of this size, the level of service and quality of cuisine is often inconsistent across on-site restaurants. This was decidedly not the case at Astir Palace. Rather, I found the food to be expertly crafted with fresh, local ingredients delivered by efficient, friendly waitstaff. Though I didn't get to try all 10 outlets, I did test out a few.

I ate breakfast at Mercato, the property's indoor-outdoor Italian restaurant. Its beautiful Aegean views were made even better by a full buffet spread of pastries and bread, meats and cheeses, fruits, yogurts and cereal, hot dishes and fresh juices. It also offered an a la carte menu, and my eggs Benedict (about $30) was as classic as it comes.

I enjoyed lunch at Helios, the outdoor restaurant that flanks the main pool area; it features upbeat music and a Latin-inspired sharing menu. The vibes here were lively, and the food was delicious. I enjoyed pibil tacos consisting of slow-cooked chicken breast with annatto, avocado and pickled onion (about $22) and fresh guacamole made tableside (about $21).

Beyond both Nafsika and Arion, right down on the water at the edge of the property's west-facing cove, was Taverna 37, the property's Greek restaurant. I had an incredible dinner there and was lucky enough to dine during sunset. I enjoyed the Cretan Ntakos salad, consisting of some of the sweetest cherry tomatoes I've ever eaten, paired with avocado, strawberries and fresh Katiki cheese from Domokos ($27).

The hotel's poolside dining, which services all three private beaches (more on that in a moment), is called Kyma Pool & Beach Bar. Here, guests can order light bites (mostly seafood) and cocktails. My tuna tartare (about $25) was fresh and flavorful, and the spicy California roll (about $20) was an ideal pairing for a sunny 80-degree afternoon by the water.

Dinner at Pelagos, in the Arion building, is a fine dining experience not to be missed. The Greek restaurant has received one Michelin star, and it was a highlight of my time in Greece. The interior was modern and elegant, with a gleaming midcentury-style bar, and the outside overlooked the Aegean. Chef Luca's multicourse menu consists of three options: Discovery for $165, Adventure for $180 or Best of for $165. It took me through a delightful experience of local flavors and seasonal ingredients, all artfully plated and delivered with some of the best restaurant service I've experienced.

Dishes included a trio of local olive oils with fresh bread, an exquisite caviar pasta with cold spaghetti and clams, mint ceviche with yellowtail and pistachio, and white aubergine with pork belly and oyster.

Amenities and things to do

With such an extensive footprint between two sprawling buildings and so much coastline, one could spend a week trying out all of Astir Palace's amenities without getting bored. The property is home to a handful of beaches, as well as a relaxation spa, a gym, jogging trails around the peninsula, a tennis academy, basketball courts and a dedicated kids club.

There are also more than 22,000 square feet of flexible event spaces. Several weddings occurred during my trip, but due to the sheer size of the resort, those events felt very separate from my own experience at the hotel.

Pools and beaches

The property's main pool (which is family-friendly) sits below Nafsika, and it's the stuff of "White Lotus" dreams. Elegant wood chaise lounges and wood-framed cabanas draped in fresh towels surround a main pool dotted with verdant olive trees. This was certainly the hub of activity at the property and was quite busy during all hours of the day. Apollo Beach, also below Nafsika, offers direct access to the Aegean Sea, and guests will find both chaise lounges and private cabanas available for reservation.

On the far side of the property, below the bungalows and just beyond the outdoor Taverna 37, is the smaller, curved Zolotas Beach.

Just below Arion is a striking adults-only infinity pool — by far the most quiet and peaceful waterside area. (I never saw more than two or three people at this pool.)

The spa

Astir Palace's spa was in the Arion building and featured a serene indoor lap pool lined with floor-to-ceiling, ocean-facing windows.

Multiple lounge areas with couches and chaises, shrouded in soft, neutral colors and fabrics, set the scene for the menu of rejuvenating experiences. All treatments are inspired by ancient remedies and the teachings of Hippocrates. (For example, the Giosi foot ritual — $32 — uses ancient Greek techniques to apply fragrant compresses and deep exfoliation to activate nerve reflexes).

Unfortunately, I didn't have the chance to try a spa treatment, but walking through the tranquil space in itself felt like an opportunity to unwind.

Fitness

Four Seasons Astir Palace's 24-hour fitness center was spacious and provided plenty of treadmills with waterfront views, cardio equipment and weights. There was a counter for refreshments and towels, and the center also offered classes (like core training and spinning).

Outside of the gym, there are tennis courts, a soccer field and basketball courts. Court rentals and tennis lessons are available upon request and depend on availability.

Insider tips

• Don't miss dining at Taverna 37 during sunset to catch one of the best views on the property over wine and Greek cuisine.
• Spend a day exploring the sweet seaside town of Vouliagmeni. One must-see activity includes a visit to Lake Vouliagmeni, with its famous thermal mineral waters known for their health benefits.
• If you're visiting during a busy season, make sure to reserve a cabana by the pool or one of the beaches to ensure you have a place to lounge. The main pool and all the beaches can get quite crowded. You can arrange this through the concierge in either lobby.
• Those seeking the utmost peace should head to Arion's infinity pool, which felt nearly empty my entire stay. It offers breathtaking views thanks to its high perch over the sea.
• For those who want to take full advantage of the oceanside proximity, look at the hotel's experience offers. They range from luxury boat tours of nearby islands to sailing trips and even private yacht reservations.

Accessibility at Four Seasons Astir Palace

Four Seasons Astir Palace does have wheelchair-friendly elevators throughout both buildings, but moving from the buildings to the lower-level beaches and pools may prove challenging for some. Accessibility routes weren't always clear. Also, the hotel does not have a dedicated accessibility page, so there is no indication of whether the pools are accessible. (I did not see a lift chair.)

There is a wheelchair-accessible entrance to both primary buildings, as well as a wheelchair-accessible parking lot.

Four Seasons Astir Palace has 10 accessible rooms, which include features like electronic doors that open automatically, lowered toilets and roll-in showers with grab rails.

Bottom line

My two-night stay at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens left me feeling rejuvenated and relaxed. It also gave me a huge appreciation and respect for the level of peerless service for which the Four Seasons brand is so well known. This resort truly embodies that ultraluxury level of hospitality, and I felt it in every interaction — from my check-in and dining experiences to my exchanges with the beach attendants and housekeeping staff at turndown service. It was even apparent during my drive to the airport when I found a boxed breakfast waiting for me in the back seat of the car — a welcome surprise at 5 a.m. There's a reason Four Seasons is the pinnacle of luxury hospitality for so many.

While this level of luxury certainly comes at a steep price, those in search of the most elegant getaway in this special pocket of the Aegean coastline — and so close to the excitement of Athens — will find a paradise worth the splurge. Thanks to the level of service and comfortable accommodations as well as the sprawling nature of the property, it really feels like there is a corner for everyone. Couples looking to unwind, families looking for a lively seaside vacation, or those looking for a peaceful solo stay will all find a home away from home at Astir Palace.

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