3 weeks ago
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Whenever I find myself wandering through the rolling landscapes of Carmarthenshire, I am constantly reminded of how layered the history is beneath our feet.
Wales is famously known as the land of castles, and while the massive coastal fortresses often steal the limelight, it’s the smaller, deeply atmospheric ruins that often capture my imagination the most.
In North Wales you may recall I did the road trip of Edward I Iron Ring of castles. Now for something different down in the south.
Recently, my travels took me to the charming market town of Llandovery. Nestled perfectly on the edge of the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog), it’s a cracking little spot.
But looming quietly over the town centre, perched on a rocky knoll, are the rugged remains of Llandovery Castle. I couldn’t resist a walk up to explore.
A Tug-of-War History
Like many of the fortifications in this part of the world, Llandovery Castle’s past is a turbulent tale of tug-of-war.
Originally built by the invading Normans in the early 12th century (around 1116 by Richard Fitz Pons), it was initially an earth and timber motte-and-bailey structure.
Its strategic location was obvious—it controlled a major junction of valleys and rivers, making it a highly prized piece of real estate.
Because of this, it rarely knew peace. Over the next couple of centuries, it violently changed hands back and forth between the Normans and the native Welsh princes.
The great Lord Rhys (Rhys ap Gruffydd) captured it in the late 12th century, adding stone defenses to solidify his grip.
However, its most famous attack came much later in 1403, when the legendary Welsh leader Owain Glyndŵr besieged the castle during his national uprising against the English crown. After that, it fell into the slow, romantic decay we see today.
The Striking Stainless Steel Hero
Perhaps the most unique and breathtaking part of visiting Llandovery Castle isn’t the ancient masonry itself, but what stands proudly right beside it.
As you walk up the grassy mound, you are met by a towering, 16-foot stainless steel statue of a cloaked figure holding a spear and shield.
This is the monument to Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Fychan, a wealthy local landowner and an absolute hero of Welsh history.
The story goes that in 1401, King Henry IV was hunting down Owain Glyndŵr. Llywelyn, aged 60 at the time and harbouring two of Glyndŵr’s sons, intentionally led the furious English King and his army on a wild goose chase through the harsh Welsh mountains for weeks.
He knew exactly what the consequences would be. When Henry IV finally realized he had been tricked and that Glyndŵr was long gone, he had Llywelyn brutally executed right there in the Llandovery town square.
Standing beneath this magnificent, gleaming statue, with the wind off the hills whistling through its hollow steel frame, it’s hard not to feel a deep sense of respect for his sacrifice. It’s a beautifully haunting tribute.
Visiting Llandovery Castle
What I love about ruins like this is the accessibility. There are no ticket booths or turnstiles here.
Getting There: The castle is located right in the middle of Llandovery town. There is a very convenient, large pay-and-display car park right at the base of the castle hill, making it incredibly easy to pop in. The full address is Castle St, Llandovery SA20 0AN.
The Walk: It’s a very short, slightly steep stroll up the grassy banks to the ruins. It takes literally just a minute or two from the car park.
Cost: Completely free. You can wander the grounds at your own pace. The pay and display car park is the only cost and it is minimal at 90p for an hour.
The Views: Be sure to take a moment to look outward. The vantage point from the knoll offers gorgeous, sweeping views over the rooftops of Llandovery and out towards the lush River Towy valley and the Black Mountain.
Whether you are just passing through Carmarthenshire and need a place to stretch your legs, or you’re specifically hunting for pockets of rich Welsh history, Llandovery Castle is absolutely worth an hour of your time.
Grab a coffee from one of the lovely independent cafes in town (Llandovery Craft Centre & Cafe is my tip), walk up the hill, and stand shoulder-to-shoulder with Llywelyn overlooking the gorgeous Welsh countryside.
It doesn’t get much better than that.
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