Captivating Copenhagen

From the top of the baroque Vor Frelsers Kirke I could see almost all of central Copenhagen. The 400 steps up the winding spiral staircase hadn’t seemed too demanding, not even the last 150, which wound around the outside of the bell tower.

The last few steps were only just wide enough for one person to squeeze up at a time. I squeezed past a handful of nervous tourists, who were clearly having second thoughts, and climbed right to the tippy top where I was rewarded with one of the best views over Copenhagen – a 360° panoramic view of the city and beyond.

Copenhagen, Denmark’s design-savvy, food-obsessed capital, is often described as one of the most liveable cities in the world. Its relatively small size, fabulous architecture, clean harbour, low crime rate, terrific public transport and the world’s best work-life balance, all combine to make this a great place both to live and visit. Add to the mix, its beautiful waterways, picturesque streets, historical buildings, modern architecture, world-class museums, vibrant nightlife, a craft beer industry that kicked off here before anywhere else in Europe, 26 Michelin stars awarded to 15 restaurants, and thousands upon thousands of bicycles. Danes take quality of life seriously and it shows. Whether you’re sightseeing, dining, bar-hopping or shopping, and whether you prize cleanliness, greenness or inventiveness, Copenhagen seems to excel at just about everything.

All capitals have their classic sights, a list of things you really should do and see, and Copenhagen is no different. Here’s my list of places you shouldn’t miss when visiting this fairy tale city.

Historic Nyhavn

Nyhavn is one of the most iconic spots in Copenhagen. This vibrant 17th-century waterfront and canal district is known for its colourful townhouses and historic wooden ships. Originally a bustling commercial port, it’s now a lively area filled with restaurants, cafes, and bars.

The canal is a real open-air museum, flanked by historic ships owned by the Danish National Museum and whether strolling the cobblestone streets, dining by the water, or visiting the festive Christmas market, the area is a wonderful blend of history and charm.

If you’re hungry call in at Told og Snaps for their amazing range of smørrebrød (Danish open sandwiches). On the menu you’ll find classic open-faced sourdough rye bread sandwiches, but with a twist. Amazing combinations – think curried herring with red onions, apple and egg, pan-fried plaice with hand-shelled Greenland shrimps and homemade remoulade, or warm liver pate with cucumber salad, pickled beetroot and bacon.

Take your cue from the restaurant’s name, and wash your meal down with snaps (schnapps). You have a choice of traditional flavours or some more adventurous offerings, like walnut, horseradish or browned butter – there are more than forty flavours to choose from! 

Sightseeing boat trip

Copenhagen is full of beautiful canals and waterways, and a canal tour is the perfect way to see the sights. Jump on at Nyhavn and you’ll pass the Opera House, Black Diamond Library, Amaliehaven, and Our Saviour’s Church.

Continuing on you’ll pass through the cosy canals of Christianshavn, full of houseboats and lined with charming old buildings. Most boat tours pass by Den Lille Havfrue, The Little Mermaid, the symbol of Copenhagen, sitting on her rock, and this is probably the easiest way to see her. She is ‘little’ indeed, only 1.25m tall, and many visitors find her somewhat disappointing. (Holders of a Copenhagen Card can depart on a free canal tour from Ved Stranden).

GoBoats are another great way to explore the city’s waterways. Hire one for 1, 2 or 3 hours and drive it yourself as you choose your own route through the canals.

Wonderful palaces

Amalienborg Palace has been home to the Danish royal family for over 200 years and consists of four separate rococo palaces around a large square.

Two of the palaces are open to the public, the first is a museum and in the second you can get a look at what the Danish royal residence is like on the inside. Don’t miss the changing of the guard, daily, at noon.

Rosenborg Palace dates back to 1606, when it was built as a royal summer house by Christian IV. Nowadays the palace is like a time capsule, filled with 400 years of treasures and works of art, including the Crown Jewels. Don’t miss the Knights’ Hall with its coronation thrones and historical tapestries and do finish off with a walk through the king’s gardens, the oldest royal garden in Denmark.

Christiansborg Palace now houses the Danish Parliament, the Supreme Court, and the Ministry of State. Although a government building, it’s still possible to visit the wing that belongs to the royal family including the Great Hall, which is 40m long with 400 seats.

On top of a hill overlooking the green oasis of Frederiksberg Gardens is Frederiksberg Castle, the former summer palace of the Danish Royal Family. The palace dates back to the early 1700s and is inspired by the Italian style at the time. There are guided tours on the last Saturday of every month

Fabulous streets and squares

Kongens Nytrov is the largest square in Copenhagen and is flanked by some of the most important buildings in the city – the Royal Theatre, Hotel d’Angleterre and Charlottenborg Palace.

The square is the perfect starting point for exploring Copenhagen, as all the metro lines converge here and it’s located right in the heart of the city centre.

At just over 1km, Strøget is one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe. You’ll find everything here from high-end Danish design stores to small boutiques and budget-friendly shops. If shopping for classic Danish design, visit Georg Jensen, Royal Copenhagen or Illums Bolighus, to indulge your inner child stop off at the LEGO store, and if comics and collectables is more your thing, call in at the Faraos Cigarer shops.

Snaregade and Magstræde, with their original cobblestones, are two of the oldest streets in Copenhagen, dating back to the 18th century. Beautiful streets with a higgledy-piggledy array of different-sized houses with brightly painted plasterwork – loads of character and great streets to photograph.

Jægersborggade in Nørrebro has gone from dodgy to hip, and is one of the most buzzing streets in Copenhagen at the moment – home to around 40 art galleries, organic produce shops, vintage clothes, ceramics and jewellery designers, as well as wine bars, coffee shops and restaurants, not to mention some of the best coffee around, at The Coffee Collective.

Interesting museums

The Danes care about design, and nowhere is that more obvious than at Designmuseum Denmark, housed in a renovated 1700s Rococo-style building, with three exhibition sections dedicated to Design and Crafts, including a gallery solely of chairs and lamps and one that focuses on Danish silver craftsmanship.

The Ny Carlsberg Glypotek, with its ancient marble busts and palm-filled Winter Garden, is located near Tivoli Gardens. Carved marble statues, masterpieces of Danish art, Egyptian mummies and collections of Gauguin’s paintings and sculptures by Degas, this is both a place to admire the art and a peaceful corner to escape the noise of the city.

Dating from 1787, the Medical Museion building once housed the Royal Danish Academy of Surgery. Nowadays it’s home to a collection of medical curiosities, from preserved body parts to old medical equipment. At the centre of the museum is the anatomical theatre in which generations of medical students witnessed dissections of corpses and learned about anatomy. Not one for the squeamish!

Historical landmarks

For more than 250 years, the people of Copenhagen have buried their dead in Assistens Kirkegård cemetery in Nørrebro. This is Denmark’s best-known cemetery and the final resting place of many famous Danes, including Hans Christian Andersen. It’s also a beautiful green space to just visit, stroll, cycle or have a picnic.

The Rundetaarn or Round Tower, built in 1642, is Europe’s oldest functioning observatory. The building is famous for its wide, spiral ramp, once used by horses to drag carts of books up to the university library at the top. From the top there’s a striking view of Copenhagen from a viewing platform running around the tower.

The pentagon-shaped Kastellet or Citadel, was commissioned by Frederik III, in 1662 and is one of the best-preserved fortresses in Northern Europe. Take a walk and see the historic windmill, the church, the Commander’s house, and the garrisons. The views of the harbour are excellent.

While you’re in the neighbourhood, visit Gefion Fountain in Langelinie Park, on the Østerbro harbour front. It features a large-scale group of oxen, pulling a plough and being driven by the legendary Norse goddess, Gefion. It’s the largest monument in Copenhagen and is used as a wishing well.

Green spaces

Take a stroll through the Botanical Gardens with their collection of more than 13,000 plant species, spread over ten hectares and make sure to visit the beautiful 19th-century greenhouses. The butterfly house is also worth a visit.

The Copenhagen Lakes or Søerneare, are a row of three rectangular lakes curving around the western edge of the city centre. There are three lakes, Sankt Jørgens Sø, Peblinge Sø and Sortedams Sø, and the paths around them are popular with strollers, bikers and runners. Two small islands have been built in Sortedams Sø as breeding grounds for birds. In winter, if the ice is thick enough, you can walk on it, and in summer, you can rent a boat bike and go for a paddle. To walk around all three lakes is about 6.35km.

Tivoli Gardens

If you’re a big kid at heart, head to Tivoli Gardens and admire one of the oldest theme parks in the world. This famous amusement park combines manicured gardens and roller coasters and has been attracting visitors since 1843.

It’s said Walt Disney visited and loved the Tivoli Gardens so much that he was inspired to create Disneyland. You can buy a ticket for entry just to the park, or one that covers unlimited rides. Both tickets cover you for the shows, which range from ballet and classical music to fireworks on Friday and Saturday nights.

Torvehallerne food market

Head to Torvehallerne food market, one of the most diverse food markets in Europe, with more than 80 shops, bars, and eateries to choose from. Seafood lovers should stop by Hav, for chocoholics Summerbird Chocolate’s roasted almonds covered in praline, white chocolate and strawberry dust are amazing. Nina and Mikkel at Oliviers & Co have a vast array of olive varieties, incredible olive oils, vinegars and condiments. Ma Poule does a super duck rillette roll with mustard and rocket, which you can wash down with a glass of wine from Le Petit Vinbar, just a few stalls down, or a Danish beer from Mikkeller & Friends.

Hang out with hippies

Christiania is Copenhagen’s alternative and controversial neighbourhood, founded in 1971 when a group of people cut a hole in the fence to an abandoned military barracks and took up residence. Christiania has long been famous for its open cannabis trade. Christiania is open to the public. You can explore on your own or book a guided tour led by a local Christianite. Do note there are areas where you can take photos and others where you can’t, these are clearly marked.

Eat Danish pastries

No trip to Denmark is complete without eating delicious Danish pastries and there’s no better way fuel a day of exploring, than with a sticky Kanelsnegle, otherwise known as a cinnamon swirl. You can find them in every single bakery, lining the window display cases in all their delicious, sweet, spiced glory.

Top tip

Before you begin exploring Copenhagen purchase a Copenhagen Discover Card. The card can be purchased online or at the airport and covers unlimited use of public transport as well as free entrance to 80+ museums and attractions. Alternatively, the Copenhagen Hop card covers admission to 40+ attractions in the city centre and Hop-on Hop-off sightseeing busses.  (Each paying adult can include up to two children aged 0-11 free of charge).