Ometepe: A Practical Guide to Nicaragua’s Twin Volcano Island

The decision to spend the festive season on Nicaragua’s Ometepe Island was an interesting one. It was far from a traditional Christmas or New Year’s experience, but I did get to cosy up at a cabin where white-faced capuchin monkeys regularly hung out.

My late-night arrival on the island may have been stressful, given my failing motorbike lights and exhaustion from travelling all day, but this soon disappeared as soon as I saw Ometepe in its full glory. The island stands out for its iconic location in the heart of Lake Nicaragua, as well as its incredible landscape comprising twin volcanoes, hot springs and waterfalls.

When I was not sitting on the porch observing my dog as he watched the monkeys swing from tree to tree, or strolling through the banana plantation of another hostel I spent a few days at, I was riding the notoriously rough roads on my motorbike, eager to visit the island’s attractions.

It didn’t take long to realise how diverse Ometepe really was, and that deciding to spend the holidays on an island in the middle of a lake was, in fact, a rather cool plan — and an incredibly memorable one at that.

Ometepe’s top hubs & neighborhoods

Ometepe is a popular destination on any Nicaraguan guide, so accommodation is not hard to find. From backpacker budget hostels to luxury eco resorts, the island caters to every kind of traveller, but what does take some research are the various hubs you can choose to stay in. This can be quite confusing for many travellers, including myself, especially since the area you choose to stay in can make or break your trip. 

For example, the island is made up of hubs which include Moyogalpa, Balgue and Santa Cruz, to name but a few, and each place has its own distinct offerings. Some cater to eco-conscious travellers, others to party seekers or social hangouts.

To make it easier, I will break down each area along with its features, so you can see which one suits you best. Truthfully, I wish I had known this before I arrived in Ometepe, since the area I chose to stay was quiet and far from exciting hangouts – and around New Year, that really had an impact on my plans. 

NeighborhoodFeaturesVibe

Moyogalpa	– The largest town on the island – Abundant bars, restaurants and hotels – Easy access to the ferry	Lively, social and convenient
Balgue	– Many hiking trails and natural spots  – A more isolated feel – Easy access to the Maderas volcano	Lively and eco/nature-focused
Playa Santo Domingo & Santa Cruz	– A beautiful stretch of coast with wonderful beaches – Well located for visiting the rest of the island – Popular with couples and families	Laid back, yet central
Altagracia	– Lakeside setting – Strong cultural appeal – More locals than tourists	Authentic and a little sleepy
Merida	– Accessed via a non-paved road – Quieter with fewer tourists – Rural, so having your own transport is essential	Off the beaten track and authentic

For the first and last few days, I stayed at a private cabin at La Chiponga Beach Hostel in Santo Domingo, which was quiet but close to other areas that could be visited with my motorbike. In between, I stayed at Bananas Guest House in Altagracia, which was a rural hostel set amongst a family-run banana plantation. 

Having my own set of wheels was essential for both of these spots, but particularly for the hostel at the banana plantation, as it was located far down a very rough road near Altagracia. Having visited the entire island, I wished I had done my research and stayed somewhere more lively, like Balgue, instead of the quieter areas I chose. Choosing the right location is essential when visiting Ometepe – take it from me. 

Best places to stay in Ometepe

• $ El Pital, Chocolate Paradise (Balgue) is a chocolate‑farm eco-lodge on the jungle fringe and lakefront, versatile enough to suit hostel, cabin, or hotel stays – starts at $14
• $ Eco lodge Porvenir (Santa Cruz) is a quiet, rustic stay, surrounded by nature with a relaxed eco vibe and on-site food – starts at $27
• $ El Zopilote (Balgue) feels more like a nature community than a typical hostel – with a working permaculture farm – starts at $14
• $$ El Encanto Garden Hotel (Santa Cruz) is highly rated for its epic Volcán Concepción views and homey setting – starts at $43
• $$ Hotel Boutique Victoria (Moyogalpa) – a solid step up from basic stay with an outdoor pool, cozy rooms – starts at $55
• $$ El Mirador Ecológico (Altagracia) is a lodge with lake‑view rooms and easy access to hikes and the lakeside Santo Domingo Beach – starts at $55
• $$$ Xalli Beach Hotel (Altagracia), a barefoot‑chill, lakefront hideout right on Playa Santo Domingo with hammocks, gardens and lake views – starts at $82
• $$$ Selvista Guesthouses (Balgue) are nestled in the jungle and make a great base for hiking, exploring petroglyph trails and Maderas Volcano – starts from $105

Find hotels at booking.com

Tip: If you are seeking a cool hostel with great food and a social atmosphere, Raindance Hostel is a good option. They are known for their famous pool parties, and this is where I rang in the New Year.

If you visit, don’t miss climbing up to their quirky treehouse for a unique experience – you can even order food and drinks from here via telephone, which are then delivered by a makeshift rope and pulley system. 

How to get there

Getting to Ometepe is rather easy; in fact, there are two options to choose from. I chose to take the ferry to Moyogalpa from San Jorge on the mainland; there is also a ferry to San Jose del Sur. The ferry from San Jorge to Moyogalpa takes just an hour and is certainly more popular than San Jose del Sur (90 minutes) and costs around $2 -$3 per person. 

Ometepe mapped by Eco-Lodge El Porvenir

As a foot passenger, you don’t need to buy tickets in advance, but I would certainly suggest you arrive early if you are visiting in the high season.

Lanchas (boats) generally take foot passengers and a few motorbikes if there is space, while ferries take bigger vehicles to the island. If you are taking a vehicle, arrive well in advance to secure your space. Although I just had a small motorbike, I was told there was no space, and I had to wait a few hours until the next available boat. 

It is also worth noting that there’s an official fee for foreigners to enter San Jorge port, and you will be guided to the window to pay this tax, so just be aware that this is not a scam. Before you board, someone will double-check that you have paid this tax, so keep all receipts and tickets at hand. 

Having crossed at sunset, I remember getting my first glimpse of Ometepes twin volcanoes – Concepcion and Maderas just before the daylight disappeared. It was magical! This is one of the most scenic boat rides you will experience, so try to get a good seat on the open deck, where you can take photos just as I did. 

How to get around Ometepe

Being able to take my motorbike to Ometepe was fantastic, because it allowed me the freedom to explore whenever I wanted. You will notice many travellers zooming around on scooters, motorbikes and ATVs too, which can be equally as fun. On the island, there are plenty of scooter rental companies, and from the get-go, you will notice that this is the most popular way for travellers to explore the island. Think Bali vibes!

Even though you may not be asked much about your experience or to show a scooter license, I would stress that having experience on rough terrain and beat-up roads is necessary – I even struggled to get to some of the waterfalls! I’m talking to you, Cascada San Ramón! 

Ometepe is a mix of well-paved roads and deep, pitted dirt roads, some steeper than others, so be prepared to switch it up throughout the day, since you never know when the good road will end, and when the bad road will begin. 

Tip: You will find many scooter, quad and motorbike rentals dotted between Santa Cruz and Balgue, but others can be found around the island too. Expect to pay between $10 – $15 per day for a scooter/motorbike and around $30 for a quad. 

Things to do in Ometepe

Ometepe promises rugged volcano trails and steaming hot springs, which make it a place where adventure or relaxation is never far away. For me, I loved the combination of a gruelling hike paired with a rewarding dip, which I found at San Ramón. This was one of my highlights, and my dog absolutely loved swimming in the falls with me. 

1. Swim in Ojo de Agua’s natural pools

Ojo de Agua’s natural pools are the most popular hot springs on the island and can be compared to a mirror-like lagoon, where you can swim and relax all day long. You can also grab food and drinks here, and if you have a dog, there are some beautiful dog-friendly trails in the reserve too, which take you through banana plantations and thick jungle. I loved this!

(HildaWeges/DepositPhotos)

2. Explore the wildlife-rich Chaco Verde Nature Reserve

Another standout attraction was Chaco Verde Nature Reserve, which had a whole host of trails that took you through swamps and mangroves, as well as a butterfly garden.

This dog-friendly trail was quite intriguing since we were almost always surrounded by howler monkeys swinging from tree to tree – something which really fascinated my dog and made me giggle. To be this close to wildlife was an amazing experience, and the surroundings evoked a sense of peace and connection. 

Navigating this tiny, packaged nature stop with Gimli

3. Hike Ometepe’s volcano trails

Ometepe is home to two volcanoes, which is no secret, since they truly dominate the skyline. Hiking to either Concepcion or Maderas is a popular thing to do on the island, but it is always best to do this when it has not rained. I say that from experience! 

Volcán Concepción is the tallest peak on the island, and the hardest of the two hikes. This volcano dominates the northern half of the island and is, in fact, the country’s second-highest volcano, so you will hear many people mentioning that they plan to conquer it while they are there.

Having overheard a group of travellers discussing how challenging the hike was, I decided that this may not be the right choice for me, but for some, it was definitely a bucket list activity. You still have the option of a guided group tour to Concepcion for a safe and doable experience.

It is worth noting that this is an active volcano and it regularly releases a continuous discharge of fumes and volcanic ash, so it is best to do your research before undertaking such a challenge, and preferably go with a guide. In my opinion, this volcano is just as amazing to see from afar, since it is one of the most perfectly cone-shaped volcanoes in the region and makes a fantastic backdrop. 

Note: Allow at least 10 hours to complete this difficult hike, and do not attempt it when it is raining or there are strong winds. 

Lake Nicaragua splashing against a rocky volcanic shoreline

Volcán Maderas is possibly more popular because it is less challenging, but you should still not underestimate the hike. There are a few trailheads, but the most frequented starting point is at Finca Magdalena, close to Balgue.

While I had full intentions of completing this hike, I made it to the second or third viewpoint before turning around. The views were sensational, and I had been told that there were less clear views as you climb higher, so my dog and I were happy to sit back and take in the surroundings from halfway. 

Volcan Maderas rising behind Ometepe’s black-sand shoreline — Playa Santa Cruz (James Wagstaff/iStock)

I remember meeting a family who had gotten lost trying to find the way, so I would suggest downloading an offline map to use as you make your way up. This family followed my dog to the viewpoint and also decided that this would be their turnaround point too, since the trail is well known for getting steep and incredibly muddy further along. If you make it to the top, however, you will be rewarded by a crater lagoon, which you can swim in, so it is well worth completing. 

Note: Allow at least 8 hours for this hike, but there are multiple viewpoints along the way, so add extra time for photo stops. It is best to attempt it on a clear, sunny, dry day to make the most of the experience and enjoy sweeping views.

4. Ride around the island

This is by far one of the most popular things to do on Ometepe, which is why there are so many scooter rentals to be found. You can easily follow the road around the island, but as mentioned, some parts are paved and smooth, while other sections can be very steep and full of potholes.

There were many times when I had to stop to consider whether I wanted to attempt some of these sections on my Suzuki, while novice riders zoomed past me with zero fear. 

However, in saying that, I did witness a few novice riders lose control of their scooters on straight paved roads, so always make sure that you have had some practice before setting off on a two-wheeled adventure. Along the way, you will get some incredible views of the volcanoes, especially Volcán Concepción — most notably on the section between Altagracia and Balgue. 

Tip: If you are adventuring around the island, make sure you time it so you arrive at San Ramón on the west coast for sunset; it is absolutely magnificent. 

5. Trek to Cascada de San Ramón

San Ramón waterfall was one of my highlights, but the ride to the starting point was not. The guard at the entrance double checked that riders were experienced before attempting to ride to the starting point, but I could tell that many travellers were just taking a chance.

This road is super rough and steep, so it is advisable to park at the bottom and walk the extra two kilometres instead, unless you have excellent skills or an ATV. 

The hike to San Ramón takes you through thick jungle, with plenty of wildlife to admire en route. My dog loved this hike just as much as I did, but be prepared to work up a sweat. The reward, however, is the magical waterfall that awaits you at the top, complete with a large pool to bathe in.

This was pure bliss after such a challenging hike under the sun, and despite seeing many waterfalls during my travels, this was added to the list of the most memorable. 

6. Kayak the Istian River

The Istian River is well known for its flora and fauna, which makes it a paradise kayaking spot. This is one of the best things to do on the island if you happen to be visiting the island in the rainy season (June – October), and you can do this on your own or as part of a tour. 

Kajak paddling on Istian river (Río Istián), trough mangrove forest

In my opinion, doing this as part of a tour is highly recommended, since the guides can point out the variety of wildlife around and give you more information about the ecosystem.

If you prefer to skip the kayaking part but would love to spot some wildlife, then you can always follow the hiking trail from Playa Santa Domingo to the upper end of the Rio Istián. Early morning or just before sunset is the most magical time to experience nature at its liveliest. 

Book a kayaking tour in the istian river

Where to eat

My recommendation: $ Comedor Julias

What can I say? At first, I chose to eat here since it was just a short walk from my cabin at La Chiponga, but I ended up eating there almost every day, even on New Year’s Eve. Well known for their great hospitality, lakeside location, cold beer and fresh seafood, this local restaurant was a far cry from the busier, more expensive places elsewhere on the island. 

Other great places to eat, for all budgets:

• $ Comedor Mirador del Cocibolca
• $ Comedor Sonia
• $$ Zapote Ometepe
• $$ El Pital Ometepe, Chocolate Paradise
• $$ The Jungle Restaurant

Tip: If you are on a budget, you can easily find street food or a local comedor, which are much cheaper than tourist-heavy restaurants. These are often found around the central plazas or on side streets, and in Altagracia, while staying on the banana plantation, I mainly ate local street food, which was cheap and delicious.

Best time to visit

November to April is the dry season on Ometepe Island, and this is the best time to visit for outdoor adventures and a more lively atmosphere. I visited during Christmas and New Year and noticed that there was a great mix of local Nicaraguan families as well as travellers holidaying here during the festive season. 

These clear, dry and sunny days will ensure you get to enjoy riding around the island, hiking and visiting outdoor attractions. December to February is the busiest time, which is great if you want to mingle, but if you are looking for more tranquillity, then perhaps visiting in March or April is a better option. 

Tips & advice

• Do not underestimate the volcano hikes; they are both challenging, so if you want to enjoy easier trails, choose Chaco Verde Nature Reserve instead. 
• If you are planning to visit at a busy time, as I did, always book in advance. I left it too late and had to switch accommodation halfway through my stay – although this meant I got to enjoy living on a banana plantation for a few days. 
• Finca Magdalena has some of the island’s best coffee, so enjoy a brew before or after your hike to Volcan Maderas.
• Ojo de Agua is best visited during the week as it gets unpleasantly busy at the weekends and during peak holidays.
• Try to experience eating at local comedors, this is a local and very authentic way to live as the locals do and enjoy basic but delicious eats.
• Punta Jesus Maria is another great spot for the sunset, but be prepared for more people than at San Ramón. 

Final thoughts

Ometepe is not a place you rush through, but instead it’s an island that reveals itself slowly. That’s why I am so glad I had over a week to explore the nooks and crannies of this Nicaraguan hot spot. Between early morning volcano hikes, long swims in freshwater pools and taking my dog on a walk through expansive banana plantations, Ometepe was a place defined by its remarkable diversity. 

What really stood out, apart from the dramatic landscape that is, was the abundance of wildlife, something which I did not expect to experience so up-close and personal. Whether it was white-faced capuchins on my porch or howler monkeys swinging from the trees as we hiked through Chaco Verde, Ometepe constantly surprised me. Although this was an unusual place to choose for the festive season, it turned out to be one of the most memorable spots to start the new year.