El Cuyo Travel Guide: Slow Living, Pink Flamingos & Zero Resorts

Arriving just before dusk in El Cuyo, the low sun shimmering in the turquoise waters as pelicans hovered in circles above, I instantly knew I would love this remote little village. 

As we crossed the causeway linking El Cuyo to the mainland right across the lagoon, reaching this village felt a bit like entering an island. (It almost is… it sits at the tip of a long peninsula, ocean on one side, lagoon on the other.)

The island-feeling is enhanced by the fact that most streets are entirely unpaved. Even the main boulevard is really just two strips of sand separated by rows of palm trees. We reached our hotel by way of a sandy backalley, parking our car next to a bamboo fence and shaded by coconut trees. Having previewed El Cuyo’s charms on our way in, I had that tingling excitement that I had arrived somewhere special. 

While El Cuyo surely earns most of its money with tourism, it can still be described as a fishing village in spirit. Nearly half of the local population relies on fishing and you’ll find fresh catch on the menu everywhere. There are no resorts or big hotels here. Its cute and colorfully painted low-rise houses are surpassed in height only by the town’s central radio mast and a small white-and-red striped lighthouse overlooking the main square. 

As you see the street art, decorations, and even the local soda brand around town a clear motif becomes apparent: they all feature pink flamingoes. That’s because for part of the year thousands of these graceful creatures nest in the nearby lagoon, lending the village much of its fame. Spotting them was easily my favorite activity in El Cuyo (more on this later).

If this place sounds quite idyllic, well, it is. But whether you should go here depends a lot on your itinerary and expectations for what to do here. So let me give my two cents on this before diving into the rest of my travel guide. 

What to expect of El Cuyo

Tourism in El Cuyo is entirely of the small-scale, bohemian kind. There are some wonderful accommodations and a variety of restaurants around, but it never feels ‘touristy’. I had the sense that there is a strong community in El Cuyo that loves the place just for what it is. This makes it easily one of my favorite spots in the Yucatan Peninsula.

That said, I wouldn’t recommend El Cuyo in every case. It’s a thoroughly sleepy and off-grid kind of place that isn’t exactly bursting with things to do. That’s a big part of what I like about it, but someone with a different perspective might also rightfully call it “dull”. I just want to acknowledge that El Cuyo appeals to a specific ‘get away from it all’ audience.

The beaches are wild and empty… but there also isn’t as much going on!

If you’re looking for a lively scene and a much broader range of activities, then Isla Holbox is honestly the go-to spot. Both are along the same coast, only about 30km apart as the pelican flies — but Isla Holbox is the much more established and accessible of the two. 

If you have your own car then El Cuyo is not too difficult to reach (from the city Valladolid it’s about 2.5 hours through small country roads). However, if you’re backpacking or just using public transport, it’s a challenge to reach. The ferry from Chiquilá to Isla Holbox is the much smoother option in this case.

Besides being a nature destination, El Cuyo serves mostly as a kitesurfing spot. While I don’t kitesurf myself, it was lovely to watch the multi-colored kites zip back and forth along the coast. The beaches are clean, sargassum-free, and undeveloped. However, winds can be a little choppier here (see: the kite surfing) and the water’s colors are deeper than those postcard-perfect hues on the Caribbean side. 

If you’re looking for nature, slow living, and a feeling of a discovery, then you’ll probably want to pin El Cuyo on your map right away. If you need something that can easily slot into a Yucatan highlights itinerary, then it may be a bit too remote and quiet for it to make sense. If you do decide to go, here’s what I recommend in El Cuyo.

Where to stay in El Cuyo

El Cuyo has a wonderful mix of local guesthouses and charming palapa-style hotels with thatched roofs and leafy patios. 

We ended up staying at Casa Maria Bonita (approx. per night). It’s primarily a restaurant with five or so rooms on the other side of the property. It has a beautiful pool and a very green and tropical courtyard where butterflies and hummingbirds constantly visit.

We loved our stay here and having the restaurant just across from us made it super easy to grab breakfast or dinner. But it’s equally just a 5-minute walk to the main square.

A great vibe at Casa Maria Bonita – and our 4-year old daughter loved the shallow end of the pool!

The other place I had favorited was Ah Muzenkab, a similar palapa-style hotel with many wooden features and a central pool. It currently has a 9.3/10 on Booking.com. Alas, it was already fully booked in February for our trip in March, so we had to ‘settle’ for Casa Maria Bonita, even though we ended up loving our stay there.

I recommend booking well in advance during high season as there is a limited selection compared to the bigger tourist hotspots in the region. 

Here are several more suggestions:

Budget — Frequency Hostel BeachfrontThe only true hostel I could find in El Cuyo, offering dorms only. Beds start at /night.

Mid-range — Casa Cuyo Hotel A laid-back beachside spot with a saltwater pool, shared kitchen, and a garden vibe that fits El Cuyo’s spirit perfectly. Rooms start at /night.

Mid-range — Casa Mate BeachFront Cabañas El Cuyo Colorful beachfront cabañas with a bar, restaurant, and direct beach access — as close to the El Cuyo ideal as it gets. Rooms start at /night.

Luxury — Casa Mia El Cuyo Eco Beach Boutique Hotel An eco-conscious boutique hotel with yoga, massage, and a beachside restaurant; high-rated (9.2) and a great fit for El Cuyo’s ecotourism values. Rooms start at /night.

Just a block away from the main square the streets turn sandy

ATV Ride through Ría Lagartos Biosphere Reserve 

Since this was easily the best thing I did in El Cuyo — perhaps even my favorite activity in two weeks of travelling in the Yucatan — let me start here. 

I booked a quad bike (ATV) tour with the local operator Aventurate El Cuyo. While the total cost was considerable, relatively speaking (around for 3 people), the payoff was amazing. 

Heading west from El Cuyo it’s about 1.5 hours of driving to reach Las Coloradas, a seaside village known best for its bright pink lagoon, a color that’s the result of the microorganisms that love the highly salty water here. However, it’s not this pink lagoon that interested me most, but the regular lagoons all along the way there, which from March through August will be absolutely speckled with bright pink flamingoes.

The drive from El Cuyo to Las Coloradas follows a small dirt road on a narrow strip of land. The flamingo lagoons will be on one side and wild long-stretching protected beaches on the other. 

Just being in this raw and open landscape with powdery white sands contrasted against the blue sky made us instantly feel like we were in a nature documentary. This feeling went into the stratosphere when we saw the flocks of flamingoes — brighter pink than I’d ever seen, thanks to the rich food sources in these lagoons.

When a whole group of them took off at the same time, flying like a huge squadron over the lagoon, it was impressive enough even for our guide to take out his phone and film it.

Strictly speaking, you don’t need to do this trip on a quad bike (ATV), however it’s definitely the ideal vehicle for it. The first half hour or so west out of El Cuyo is particularly narrow and bumpy and definitely needs a four-wheel-drive. Once you get closer to Las Coloradas the road widens and flattens a fair bit, so this part could potentially be suitable for a normal car. That said, on a quad bike the terrain is easiest to traverse, you are more in touch with the landscapes around you, and it’s easy to park your bike under a tree somewhere while you take a break at the wild beaches.

The terrain is mostly fully exposed and the sun is pretty brutal in the middle of the day, so it’s definitely worth wearing the UV-protective clothes that are included, as well as the goggles and bandanas. 

After the drive through the national park area, arriving in Las Coloradas felt like the cherry on the cake. The pink lagoon here really is pink, even without filters, and it certainly makes for a fun photo backdrop. Just don’t expect the impossibly electric pink you see in certain Instagram photos or you may be disappointed. 

While I wouldn’t go out to Las Coloradas just for this photo opportunity, as part of this tour it felt like a well-earned bonus. The village was also cool to see as it’s quite a sandy and dusty place spread out over a wider area. A dozen or so vultures were hovering above as we entered, making it feel like some remote outpost.

After a rest in Las Coloradas and a stop at a souvenir shop fully dedicated to flamingo-themed products, we went back the same way we came.

Although the price of this tour probably doesn’t make it friendly to the average backpacker or budget traveler, if you’re not taken aback by the cost I can highly recommend the experience. Just make sure if the flamingoes are home during your stay in El Cuyo, as without them the hype factor may not be quite as strong.

El Cuyo’s small grid is easy to explore by foot or bicycle

Other things to do

As I mentioned, El Cuyo is mostly about the atmosphere and slow life. There aren’t infinite things to do, with most travel guides mentioning things like “enjoy the sunset” or “relax on the beach”. However, there are still several specific activities to enjoy.

Visit the pier

From the main square you can access the village’s main pier, where you can regularly see flocks of pelicans dive-bombing into the sea to catch fish. Sitting on the dock watching the waves and maybe taking your picture by the ‘El Cuyo’ sign gives you a nice introduction to the village.

Boat tours

Taking a boat tour through the lagoon is the most accessible way to see the flamingoes if you don’t want to go for the full ATV experience. Since I’d already opted for the ATV ride I didn’t do it myself, but I suggest going by boat if quadbikes are not for you. If you’re in a group it can also be quite a bit cheaper – about per person.

Local operators run guided trips into the Ria Lagartos estuary, where you’ll get close to flamingo colonies as well as other birdlife like herons, ibis, and spoonbills. Ask around at the pier or your hotel to connect with a local guide. You can also find several boat tours bookable online here.

Rent a bicycle

Getting around by bicycle is a common thing to do here and will increase your range beyond the immediate area around the main square. Some of the more distant streets have thick sand making it harder to cycle there, but most streets are suitable for cycling and very low-traffic too. Naia Cafe rents out bicycles (and is my fave place for coffee!). Some of the accommodations also offer bicycles as an amenity or rental.

Kayak or paddleboard

The calm lagoon side of El Cuyo is perfect for a bit of SUP. With no waves and flat, shallow water, it’s ideal even for beginners. I saw several accommodations offering kayaks as an amenity, and rental is available in the village too. 

Try kitesurfing

El Cuyo’s consistent coastal winds have made it a kitesurfing destination, so you’ll almost always see a few kites in the air along the beach. If you’ve been curious about the sport, this is a good place to try a beginner lesson. The beach is long, uncrowded, and I was told the conditions are forgiving enough for first-timers. Local instructors offer introductory sessions.

Many activities can be booked locally – look or ask around!

Try wall climbing at the tower

One of the more unexpected sights in El Cuyo is a climbing tower rising up between the palm trees and the beach. There are routes for different difficulty levels, so if you’re a beginner you can start easy and work your way up. All necessary climbing and belaying equipment can be rented on-site at Cuyo Climbing, with beginner sessions priced at around per person. Kids from age 4 and up are welcome too, as long as they’re at least a metre tall. 

Check ahead for opening hours, as it runs Thursday to Sunday by default, with other days available by reservation. 

Join a trapeze class (seasonal)

Something that really caught my eye during my stay were the many posters in cafes advertising circus trapeze classes. In fact, there is a flying trapeze school in El Cuyo! No prior knowledge is required, single classes and multi-day courses available. Kids (6+) are also welcome.  

TIP: Few tours in El Cuyo can be booked online as most operators work via classic word-of-mouth. Inquire at the tour companies in person locally or ask your hotel for more info.

Where to eat

El Cuyo offers a wonderful balance of distinctly local eateries with trendier, specialty-coffee-serving places. Whether you’re looking for a simple cheap Mexican pancake breakfast, or trendy fare like tapioca or boba tea, both can be had here.

Delicious breakfast at La Laguna

I loved my meals in all of the following restaurants, where I either had dinner or breakfast/brunch.

• Naia Cafe — I went here on my last day but would have probably gone back here every day if I had known sooner. Best vibe, best coffee, best food. They serve a fantastic acai bowl and I loved their eggs benedict on a bed of smashed hash brown. Vegan options available.
• Anahata Café & Brunch — I hadn’t seen this one mentioned on other blogs, but I loved this calm, easygoing cafe located in the area near the bridge. Friendly folks, great chilaquiles, great croissants and smoothies. A little gem!
• Tacos Kukulkanelcuyo — Whatever classic Mexican food your heart desires, they probably have it. Tacos, tortas, quesadillas, burritos, it’s all on the menu. Keep in mind they are cash only. We had noticed the sign and had to jump through several hoops to pay for our meal in the end, though the staff was luckily understanding.
• La Laguna — Trendy cafe/eatery on the main square. A bit more polished and slightly lower on the charm than the others I’ve mentioned, but I must admit our coffees, chilaquiles and waffles were superb.
• Rincon Esmeralda — A little local eatery on the main square, not on Google Maps – you’ll find it next to Farmacias Salud. Not trendy or hipstery, just friendly people and simple Mexican food with local prices. They open early at 7am which was nice when we were still jetlagged and looking for an early bite.

El Cuyo’s distinct lighthouse

How to get there

El Cuyo isn’t super easy to get to, but that also keeps it off the tourist trail. The extra effort of getting there will be rewarded in the end, though you’ll need to be patient if trying to do it by public transport.

Public transport: Possible, but tricky. Wherever you’re coming from, it means at least two buses: from your starting point to Tizimín or Colonia Yucatán, then a smaller local bus from there. 

From Cancun, ADO buses go direct to Colonia Yucatán. When buying your ticket, double-check that the bus stops in Colonia Yucatán (most buses go to Tizimín and not all stop there). In Colonia, wait by the Neveria Basulto ice cream shop. This is where the bus to El Cuyo goes (only 5x per day) as well as some minibus services (more frequent, but they go only when they’re full).

From Valladolid or Merida, take a bus to Tizimín, then connect to El Cuyo from there.

By car: This is more straightforward and it’s what we did. You’ll first need to drive to Colonia Yucatan – if coming from the Riviera Maya, you’ll probably go to X-Can and then go north. These are mostly rural roads through small villages, so keep an eye out for speedbumps. If coming from Valladolid or anywhere west, it’s best to drive via the city of Tizimín, then to Colonia Yucatan. This road is wider and straighter than the road from X-Can, but it’s also more potholed at times, so keep your eyes on the road. From Colonia Yucatan, there is just one road north to El Cuyo. 

If you’re driving towards the end of the day, be sure to keep an eye out for wildlife on the road. On our trip we had a near-miss with a squirrel. Later, a coati ran across the road and vanished into the bush before we could get a photo. 

While El Cuyo takes a bit of effort to get to and veers a bit off-path from other highlights in the region, you’ll be rewarded with the feeling of being truly in nature and away from it all. For me it’s a key part of the Yucatan’s ‘alternative track’ away from the mass tourism of Cancun and Tulum. For more, don’t miss my alternative guide to the Yucatan where I share how you can find more hidden gems like this.