A Walker’s Guide to Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria

There’s a special feeling to Kirkby Stephen. While Penrith and Appleby guard the northern end of the Eden Valley, Kirkby Stephen is its southern gateway, a sturdy, unpretentious market town nestled right where the Cumbrian fells start to swell into the high hills of the Yorkshire Dales.

For me, it’s always been a walker’s town. It was the first in Cumbria to earn the “Walkers are Welcome” accreditation , and you can feel it.

It’s a genuine crossroads of trails, a place where people arrive with muddy boots and a rucksack, ready to explore.   

It’s the perfect base camp. To the east, you have the wild, open moorlands culminating in the iconic Nine Standards Rigg.

To the south, the remote, myth-steeped valley of Mallerstang opens up. And to the west, you have some of the most beautiful and accessible nature reserves in the country.

It’s a town of fascinating history, independent shops, and fantastic walks.

What to See and Do in Kirkby Stephen

Before you pull your walking boots on, the town itself is well worth exploring. It’s packed with history, with its old buildings, narrow “ginnels,” and cobbled yards all telling a story.

1. The ‘Cathedral of the Dales’ & The Loki Stone

The first thing you’ll notice is the magnificent Parish Church. It’s so large for a town of this size that it’s famously known as the “Cathedral of the Dales”.

It’s a beautiful building, but the real treasure is hidden inside. As you enter, before you, before the first pillar is the Loki Stone.

This is an incredibly rare, 8th-century stone carving depicting the bound Norse god Loki.

It’s a striking, tangible link back to the Vikings who settled this area and gave the town its name (“Kirk-by” meaning ‘village with a church’).

It’s one of the most unique Anglo-Danish finds in the country, and for me, it’s an absolute must-see.

2. A Stroll to Frank’s Bridge

From the market square, a short walk down a narrow lane brings you to Frank’s Bridge.

This is a beautiful 17th-century twin-arched packhorse bridge that crosses the River Eden.

It’s wonderfully picturesque, but it also has a slightly grim and fascinating past.

It was a “corpse lane” bridge, used to carry coffins from the surrounding hamlets for burial at the church.

At the far end, you can still see the large stones where the bearers would rest the coffin.

Local legend says it’s haunted by a ghost named “Jangling Annas,” who supposedly drowned in the river after escaping Hartley Castle in her chains.

It’s the perfect spot for a quiet five minutes, with the river flowing beneath and the fells rising in the distance.

3. The Independent Shops of Market Street

One of the things I love most about Kirkby Stephen is how vibrant it is. It’s famously a “town with no empty shops”.

Forget the usual high-street chains; this is a place full of independent butchers, bakers, antique shops, art galleries, and delis.

It’s a great place to stock up on supplies before a long hike or find a unique souvenir.

The Best Walks from Kirkby Stephen

This is why you’re really here. Kirkby Stephen is a walker’s paradise, with trails heading out in every direction. Here are my top three, from an easy stroll to an all-day epic.

1. The Easy Walk: The Poetry Path & Stenkrith Park

If you want a short, beautiful walk that’s full of surprises, this is it. Starting from the small car park at Stenkrith Bridge, this trail follows the River Eden as it cuts through a dramatic limestone gorge.

Along the 1.5-mile (2km) circular route, you’ll find the Poetry Path, a series of 12 short poems by Meg Peacocke, carved into stone.

Each one is about the life of a hill farmer through the seasons. It’s a wonderful, thoughtful touch that connects you deeply to the landscape.

2. The Nature Walk: Smardale Gill & Waitby Greenriggs

This, for me, is one of the jewels of the Eden Valley. A short drive from Kirkby Stephen brings you to the Smardale Gill Nature Reserve, managed by the Cumbria Wildlife Trust.

This is where you’ll find those wild orchids I’m always talking about. The reserve is an old, disused railway line, and its limestone embankments are the perfect habitat.

In summer, the grasslands here and at nearby Waitby Greenriggs are alive with butterflies and a huge variety of wildflowers, including fragrant, butterfly, and spotted orchids.

The walk is easy and accessible and takes you over the spectacular 14-arch Smardale Gill Viaduct, offering incredible views over the valley.

It’s also just down the road from the wonderful Waitby School, that historic getaway I’ve stayed at before.   

3. The Challenging Hike: Nine Standards Rigg

This is the big one. The high, remote summit of Nine Standards Rigg, topped by its line of massive, mysterious cairns, dominates the skyline east of the town.

This is a proper, challenging moorland hike of around 9-10 miles.

Starting from Kirkby Stephen, you follow the famous Coast to Coast path up onto the wild expanse of Hartley Fell. The views from the summit (662m) are breathtaking, stretching across the Eden Valley to the Lake District on one side and over the Yorkshire Dales on the other.

Be warned: it’s a serious walk, so go prepared with a map, compass, and good waterproofs.

You can read my detailed article on this walk at To The Nine Standards from Kirkby Stephen

Further Afield: The Hub for History

Kirkby Stephen is the natural launchpad for exploring the castles and myths of the Mallerstang valley.

• Pendragon Castle: A 10-minute drive south puts you in the heart of Mallerstang, home to the romantic, brooding ruins of Pendragon Castle, said to have been built by King Arthur’s father.   
• Brough Castle: Just up the A685, you’ll find the impressive ruins of Brough Castle, another of Lady Anne Clifford’s famous restorations.   
• Settle-Carlisle Railway: The town’s station is a key stop on one of the most beautiful railway journeys in the world. You can catch a train from here and see the epic landscapes from a different perspective.

Where to Eat & Drink

After a long walk, the town has plenty of options.

You’ll find several welcoming, traditional pubs like The Black Bull or the Taggy Man, perfect for a pint and some hearty pub food.

There are also numerous cafes and tea shops for a well-earned cake.

Getting There & Parking

• By Car: Kirkby Stephen is on the A685, easily accessible from the A66 at Brough or the M6 at Tebay.
• By Train: The town is a major stop on the Settle-Carlisle Railway line. Be aware the station (CA17 4LE) is about 1.5 miles outside the town centre, so you may want a taxi or to factor in the walk.
• Parking: There are several pay-and-display car parks in the town centre. For the Nine Standards Rigg walk, there is a free car park off Christian Head (NY 773088).