A Caribbean Escape to the Corn Islands in Nicaragua

The Corn Islands sit far off Nicaragua’s Caribbean coast and feel a world away from the rest of Central America. In spirit, they are closer to the laid-back islands of Belize or Bocas del Toro in Panama, places which prioritise slow living and sandy feet. This alone was enough to draw me in, especially after months of navigating rough roads and chaotic traffic on two wheels.

The islands, which are made up of Little Corn and Big Corn, promised beachside hostels, jungle walks and delicious seafood, all of which appealed to me. But what really piqued my curiosity was something I hadn’t expected to hear: the Corn Islands are surprisingly dog-friendly. 

Now, it’s not common practice to visit a Caribbean island with a European dog, and I was wondering if it would work out or not. With some research, it appeared to be completely possible. I had opted to take the long, budget-friendly ferry — the only realistic way that my dog could travel with me.

In saying that, it also proved to be the more scenic option (especially at sunset), even for those without a four-legged companion, so it was no surprise that there were plenty of other travellers who chose this memorable slow travel experience. 

With my motorbike and luggage in storage at Hostal Doña Vero in Bluefields and nothing but a small backpack with the essentials, our Caribbean adventure was almost underway. All that remained was the sea crossing that separates Nicaragua’s mainland from the Corn Islands. 

Big Corn vs Little Corn – which island suits you?

While Big Corn is regarded as larger, busier and more developed, Little Corn is car free, slow paced and ideal for a quiet retreat. On Big Corn Island, you will find stunning beaches and scenic walks, as well as paved roads, ATMs and a wider range of accommodation. This is well suited to travellers who prefer more infrastructure and a livelier environment, without sacrificing pristine beaches and stunning views. 

On the other hand, Little Corn is wilder, with jungle paths throughout, countless turquoise beaches and authentic eateries. The local feel is undeniable, and in my experience, within a week, I felt like I had moulded into the way of life.

This is the island to choose if you prefer a more authentic vibe, car-free surroundings and a sense of peace. However, that is not to say it is boring. There are a handful of local bars which host events from time to time, so you can easily meet people and have fun in the evenings. 

Why Little Corn is my favorite

Despite being just a short boat ride from each other, both islands are worlds apart, which is why I chose to spend one glorious week on quieter Little Corn and just one night on the more lively Big Corn. 

The Corn Islands attract travellers keen to experience their reggae rhythms, excellent diving and uncrowded beaches. For me, I was drawn to the fact that Little Corn was car-free, wild at heart and had none of the usual features of a typical Caribbean island —  cruise ships or mega resorts. 

Instead, Little Corn offers the barefoot, unplugged island escape that most weary backpackers crave after months on the road. In fact, something I heard while I was visiting truly described it well — that Little Corn Island is the way Caribbean life used to be, and having visited, I couldn’t agree more. 

How to get there (and why I took the long way)

By plane: fast, convenient and time-saving

One thing you should know about visiting the Corn Islands is that they are surprisingly accessible, even if you are limited on time. Many travellers opt to take a flight from Managua to Big Corn Island, which dramatically cuts down travel time. 

La Costeña is the only airline operating direct flights to the island, which takes around 1.5 hours, and while prices fluctuate, you can expect to pay between $150 -$250 one way. 

Arrival at Big Corn Island Airport (rjlerich/DepositPhotos)

By boat: slower, cheaper, dog friendly

Truthfully, flying was never part of the plan. Firstly, my budget did not allow it, and secondly, it was not a dog-friendly option —  at least not for large breeds like mine. 

Thankfully, there’s a second route, which many budget-conscious travellers choose, and that is to take a 7-hour boat from Bluefields to Big Corn Island, costing $9. Getting to Bluefields from Managua takes around 8 hours and costs around $10, so if you have the time, this is a great money-saving route. 

The ferry from Bluefields is basic, crowded and far from luxurious, but with a bit of persuasion, my dog was allowed on board. While not the most comfortable way to travel, it is, however, more authentic and undeniably more affordable, leaving you with extra cash to spend on delicious lobster, which is abundant. Taking this route wasn’t just preferable, but rather essential, and if you don’t mind crowds, long journeys and limited space, then it can be a workable option. 

I must admit, on the journey to the Corn Islands, the sea was rough, and the experience was not pleasant, but luckily, the return journey was much smoother, especially in the open-air seating. My advice is to bring sea sickness pills and bags just in case!

Getting to Little Corn Island

It is worth noting that there are no direct routes to Little Corn Island from the mainland, so whether you choose to fly or take a boat, as I did, you will need to take another short boat ride from Big Corn Island to Little Corn Island. Incredibly, this short 30 – 40 minute speedboat journey costs $10, and the ride is what can only be described as thrilling. 

It is best to double-check the schedules in advance to make sure that there is a ferry that can take you to and from Little Corn. This is also weather-dependent, so be prepared for cancellations or rescheduled ferries if the sea is rough. 

Flight to/from Managua/Big Corn Island	Daily morning and afternoon flights
Bus to/from Bluefields/Managua	Several direct daily options from Managua
Ferry to/from Bluefields/Big Corn Island	From Bluefields – Every Wednesday and Saturday From Big Corn Island – Every Thursday and Sunday
Ferry to/from Little Corn Island/Big Corn Island	To Little Corn Island – 10 am dailyFrom Little Corn Island – 6 am/1:30 pm daily

As you can see, if you are taking the ferry, you need to do some planning when visiting the islands based on the schedule. In my case, I planned to visit for 4 nights (Wednesday – Sunday) but decided to stay longer, which meant I had to stay until at least Thursday.

I loved Little Corn so much that this was a no-brainer; however, people I had met who were limited on time but wanted to stay a little longer could only stay four days or risk sacrificing an onward destination. 

Where to stay on Little Corn Island

Despite being the smaller of the two islands, Little Corn has plenty of accommodation. The most common options are located along the beach, but it is worth checking out distances if you plan to venture into the main “town” for the occasional trivia night or happy hour, as some spots are a 45-minute to one-hour walk through the jungle to get there. 

However, if you are seeking a rural feel with pristine beaches, away from the lively bars and cafes, then you will certainly find many paradise spots on Little Corn. For me, Grace’s Cool Spot had the perfect mix of affordability and location, which meant that I could enjoy quiet beach walks while being within walking distance to bars and restaurants. 

1. Grace’s Cool Spot

A laid-back beachfront guesthouse on the quiet west side of Little Corn Island, with a rustic Caribbean feel. This cool spot offers colorful bungalows, direct ocean access, hammocks right by the water, and it’s an easy 10–20 minute walk from the port.

• 💲Starts from $15/night
• ⭐️ Rated 7.9 on Booking.com

2. Christina’s Guest House

Another cool spot that’s family-run right off the main dock on Little Corn Island. It’s more of a practical stay, with reliable amenities for a longer visit. You’ll be a minute or two from the dock, and right in the middle of the island’s walkable village.

• 💲Starts from $12/night
• ⭐️ Rated 8.7 on Booking.com

3. Ensuenos Natural Suites

Ensuenos Natural Suites is a family-run eco-lodge/guesthouse just off the main dock, so you can be in town the moment you arrive. Rooms are clean and unpretentious, some with fans, AC, or balconies. There’s a shared kitchen if you want to cook, and a lived-in vibe where people hang laundry, swap stories, and wander back from the beach barefoot.

• 💲Starts from $32/night
• ⭐️ Rated 8.0 on Booking.com

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Depending on your budget, you can explore more accommodation options on Booking.com. There are our favorite picks that capture the island’s Caribbean vibe:

• $ Carlitos Place is an oceanfront guesthouse on Little Corn Island’s quiter est/windward side, with a private beach area – starts at $26
• $$ Los Delfines Hotel and Dive Centre caters best to those looking for a central, easy stay in the main area on Little Corn Island – starts at $38
• $$$ The Lighthouse Retreat offers more comfort than the basic guesthouses without leaving the island’s casual vibe – starts at $70
• $$$ Little Corn Island Beach and Bungalow is a top-rated, warm spot offering rustic‑chic wooden bungalows right by the sand and private beach access – starts at around $134
• $$$ Yemaya Reefs is perfect for couples or travelers seeking a higher-end seaside stay – features private terraces for sunrise views over the Caribbean – starts at $222

Find out hotels at booking.com

The best things to do on Little Corn Island

Little Corn Island may be small, but it packs a punch — something that really surprised me. Whether you have four days to explore or have some more time to discover the island, there are many activities to keep you occupied. From adventurous dives to cocktails on the beach, Little Corn Island is a place to have fun by day and by night.

1. The beaches

One of the attractions that was high on my bucket list was to visit the island’s best beach —  Otto Beach. This area is also where you will find fancier resorts and beachfront restaurants, making it an ideal spot to relax and soak up the sun. 

Floo Beach is just east of Otto Beach, and this is well worth visiting if you want to escape the crowds.

Pelican Beach along the main strip is the perfect spot for a sunset swim, and you will find many people enjoying this each evening. 

2. Walking the Island

The island is packed full of wild coastal and jungle paths, some marked and some unmarked. These paths are all connected and take you to various corners of the island, some less visited than others. For me, walking these paths was an ideal way to exercise my dog and visit the sites. 

You can easily do a loop of the island from town, following the signposts along the way, but it is quite easy to get lost, so avoid doing this after dark without someone to guide you. This is why it is not advised to stay far away from town if you plan to go out at night and socialise, since there have been quite a few stories of travellers getting lost trying to find their way home, or vice versa. 

However, embarking on a walking adventure around the island by day is highly recommended, and it will take you through local areas as well as turquoise beaches and beautiful resorts. One minute you are navigating a thick jungle surrounded by birdsong, the next minute you find yourself on a rocky outcrop with nothing but open sea in front of you. That’s the beauty of Little Corn Island. 

Tip: Don’t forget your swimwear, there are many secret spots along the way where you can take a dip on your own private beach. I found the north east coast the best place for this, since the area around Otto Beach is often the busiest.

3. Diving/snorkelling

As you will see from some of the accommodation options, some hostels have an on-site dive centre, which is a great option for those who want to explore the underwater world. While I am not a diver myself, I did meet many travellers who raved about their experiences, which is why I would suggest booking a diving trip as soon as you arrive. 

There are around 20 dive sites surrounding the island, and because the water is not extremely deep, it is well-suited to all levels of divers. Snorkelling is popular at Pelican Beach, and you can easily rent snorkel gear from The Shack Cafe on the main strip.  

4. Kitesurfing

Little Corn Island is the place where you can easily stay active, and one popular activity is kitesurfing. November – mid-March is the windy season, and you can find the best kitesurfing on the east coast of the island, where the local kitesurfing school is located. They also offer windfoil and windsurf experiences if you want to try something new.

5. Yoga

The Little Yoga Corner is the go-to on the island for yoga classes, meditation, sound bath classes, and cacao ceremonies. Run by Kelly, this well-located yoga studio is just minutes from the main area and is a great place to mingle and meet like-minded people in a beautiful spot. 

6. All the evening events 

Tranquilo Cafe on the seafront is the place to hang out, and you will often find that it is busy and very atmospheric. The best time to visit is just before sunset, when you can take advantage of the comfortable seating on the beach and enjoy some happy hour drinks. 

This is where you can get up to date with the ongoing events, such as trivia and karaoke, both of which are well worth experiencing. Nextdoor you will find Desi Social Club, which also has happy hour specials and various events throughout the week. 

Where to eat 

If you are like me and you value fresh, local seafood, then you won’t be disappointed by the offerings on Little Corn Island.

Here you can expect plenty of grilled fish, lobster, plantains and coconut rice, but if you’re craving something else, you can also find a variety of other cuisines on international menus along the main strip or near Otto Beach. In terms of price, you can expect to pay between$10-$20 for a meal, depending on where you go and what you order. 

In saying that, the lobster on Little Corn was some of the freshest and most affordable I have ever come across in my years of travel, which is why I dined at Rest El Bosque almost every evening and indulged in every kind of lobster on the menu. This is the best local restaurant on the island, in my opinion, which was confirmed to me by the full tables I witnessed every day. 

• Rest El Bosque $
• Melissas Restaurant $
• The Shack Cafe $

• Tranquilo Cafe $$
• Turned Turtle Bar & Restaurant $$
• Desi Social Club $$
• Fry Fish Bar $$

Foodie Tips: In Rest El Bosque, you can expect to pay under $10 for local lobster, which is an incredible value. My recommendation, having tried almost everything on the menu, is the grilled lobster in Caribbean sauce, which came with a side of coconut rice and vegetables. 

Caribbean sauce, served with coconut rice and vegetables

For another excellent local dish, make sure to try Rondon —  a typical island dish which can be described as a heart and soul-warming mixed fish coconut soup. This delicious and very filling dish can be found on menus throughout the island, but Rest El Bosque does it well! 

Fish coconut soup

When it comes to breakfast spots, The Shack Cafe on the main strip has a variety of scrumptious breakfast options, one of which is The Shack Attack, which will keep you full all day for just $6. 

The best time to visit the Corn Islands

For calm seas and sunshine, the best time to visit is the dry season, which runs between December and April. You can expect slightly higher prices since this is the most popular time to visit. I visited during this season and still paid just $15 per night for a dog-friendly private room at Grace’s Cool Spot. 

This is perhaps the best time to visit if you want to mingle and have fun, with lots of fun events happening around town. The wet season is between May and November, which means fewer people visit during this time, but prices are lower, and the landscape is flourishing. 

How long should you spend on Little Corn Island/Big Corn Island?

As I mentioned, I planned to go to Little Corn for four nights, but extended the trip to 8 days. At first, I was not sure if I would be bored on a small island, but in reality, this was a place I could have stayed even longer.

The friendliness of the locals, the abundance of delicious and affordable food, the endless wild nature walks and the fun activities made it a memorable place for me. I would suggest a minimum of four nights, especially if you plan to go on diving and snorkelling trips. 

From my experience, most people tend to spend longer on Little Corn Island, but always spend a night or two on Big Corn either before or after their trip. I stayed one night at the end of my trip, before taking the ferry back, and used this time to do a hike to the stunning Picnic Beach and enjoy some local dining. 

Good to know

• Expect slow wifi and power cuts – be flexible and use this time out to explore the island or chat with new friends. 
• Bring enough cash with you, as the only ATMs are on Big Corn Island. You can get cashback from local bars and restaurants, albeit for a hefty surcharge. 
• There are many dogs on the island (all of which are well cared for) who are very friendly to humans and to other dogs —  we never had any issues. 
• Eat as much lobster as you can; you won’t regret this. 
• Ferry travel is best for those with pets; though it is at the discretion of the crew, so be flexible.
• Arrive early for the ferry as long queues form, and you will want to secure a good seat for the duration of the crossing. 
• English is the main language here, but locals can communicate in Spanish too. It is worthwhile knowing that the island’s culture is very different to mainland Nicaragua. 

Final thoughts

The Corn Islands in Nicaragua aren’t polished or predictable, like I somehow imagined them to be, yet that is what makes them so special.

For me, one night was enough on Big Corn Island, whereas more than a week on Little Corn Island didn’t seem like long enough. If you are seeking an action packed all inclusive holiday, then Little Corn Island may not be the right fit. But if you want to unplug, relax and experience how Caribbean life used to be, then this is the island for you.

As a motorbike overlander, traveling minimalistically, Little Corn reminded me how little we actually need and how much value we can take from human connection and untouched nature. All I know is that my next visit will ensure no strict return date and a lot more delicious lobster.